Op avontuur in de bergen van Kyoto…

Op avontuur in de bergen van Kyoto…

Vandaag begon met een flinke fietstocht naar het zuiden van Kyoto, voorbij Fushimi Inari, langs oude begraafplaatsen, door slaperige wijkjes en langs honkbalvelden, rivier en treinrails. We parkeerden langs een drukke weg aan het begin van een steil pad omhoog…
We liepen door een bamboebos, waar amper licht doordrong. Het bamboe maakte prachtige geluiden doordat het flink waaide en de kruinen heen en weer bewogen. Ook kwamen we autobanden tegen, zo’n beetje het enige wat Japanners dumpen, wegbrengen kost geld…
Na een uurtje lopen kwamen we bij een shrine, met een tori zoals we nog nooit gezien hadden. Deze was prachtig ingesneden met allerlei afbeeldingen. We liepen verder…
We kwamen de dingen tegen die je verwacht bij een shrine in de bergen, stenen lantaarns, trappen, teksten op stenen. Maar het was rommelig, overgroeid. En er was een poes. Een hongerige poes. Die kreeg mijn tuna sandwich. Eerst het beleg, en toen de boterham…
Hier en daar zagen we wat sporen van offers en aanbidding. Een muntstuk, een klein kitsune beeldje, Fushimi Inari met de vos als beschermeling ligt om de hoek. Als je goed oplet, zie je de details om je heen…
Het pad liep verder naar beneden, naar een rommelig groepje met bouwsels…
Dit is een plek die zo te zien al lang geleden verlaten is. Scheefgezakte traptreden, een dikke boom midden op het pad…
Meer sporen van Inari, prachtige beelden en kleine shrines, met het bos wat langzaam de overhand krijgt…
Een flink eind verder het donkere bos in, lager op de heuvel troffen we meer oude bouwsels. Voor een klein altaar bedekt met mos stond dit vosje, amper tien centimeter groot. Zo mooi en mysterieus…
Nog verder naar beneden plotseling een open plek, daar zagen we dit. Een grote tori, van dezelfde hand als de kleine aan het begin van de tocht, prachtig gedecoreerd met mensen en dieren. Hier kwamen we voor, schitterend…
Bijna niets lag of stond waar het hoorde, omgevallen bomen en stormen hadden veel schade aangericht. Iets verder kwamen we de komainu tegen, de lion dogs die het belangrijkste deel van de shrine bewaken. Een zonnestraaltje deed de rest…
De naamplaat van een torii die kapot gegaan is in de loop der tijd is zorgvuldig weggezet. Gesneden uit graniet, en ongelooflijk gedetailleerd…
Hij bleef me roepen, deze komainu. Bijna alsof hij me iets wilde zeggen. Het is niet alsof deze plek al sinds de achtste eeuw bestaat met alle geschiedenis die erbij hoort…
Aan de andere kant, waar het wat lichter was, deze vos, z’n tegenhanger aan de andere kant van het pad was er al lang niet meer. In z’n bek een tekstrol als symbool van z’n functie als boodschapper van de goden…
Verder op de heuvel dit doorkijkje. Zonder woorden verder…
En nog een kleine shrine in een donker gedeelte van het bos. Als het niet zonnig was geweest, waren de foto’s vast niet zo mooi geworden…

Een klein beetje achtergrond. De shrine heet Oiwa, naar de naam van de berg waar hij zich bevindt. Sinds het einde van de 19e eeuw was een familie verantwoordelijk voor het onderhoud. Daar kwam een eind aan begin deze eeuw door gebrek aan opvolging.

Dan gaat het snel bergafwaarts, mensen komen niet meer en er komt geen geld meer binnen voor onderhoud. De prachtige poorten zijn gemaakt door een beroemde kunstenaar uit Kyoto, Domoto Insho, die zelfs z’n eigen museum heeft in de stad. De shrine stond bekend als plek om zieken beter te maken en hij kwam daar om te bidden voor z’n zieke moedertje. In 1952 heeft hij de kleine poort geschonken in de hoop de goden gunstig te stemmen, maar het mocht niet baten. Na haar dood, in 1963, maakte hij de grote poort.

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