We gingen weer eens op avontuur. De trein bracht ons in een half uurtje naar de rand van de stad, waar de huizen ophouden en de bergen beginnen. Veel mensen, lawaai, taxi’s, souvenirwinkels, commerciële troep. Niks voor ons, weg hier.Even doorlopen en plotseling zijn we alleen. Bamboe, hoog en donker, krakend in de wind. Uniek geluid. Een pad omhoog.Langs veldjes met kool en scheve schuurtjes, En steeds die geweldige bamboe…Hier en daar komen we shrines tegen met vosjes. Steeds weer. Mos en begroeiing, vochtig, donkerSchots en scheve tori’s, steile trapjes naar meer shrines. En meer vossen, maar ook andere beelden…En veel bamboe, een heel bos. Op de helling, steil en schitterend. Vreemd te bedenken dat er in Kyoto één bamboebosje zo beroemd is, Arashiyama, totaal verpest door toerisme, terwijl er ook dit is. Vast niet alleen hier…
Gigantisch, Liesbeth voor schaal…
Meer shrines, op en over elkaar heen gebouwd lijkt het. Speciaal hier is de plek, een belangrijke plek. Overal vossen, steeds in paren, links en rechts, als wantrouwende bewakers.Sommige glanzend nieuw, veel meer heel oud, groen, begroeid met mos en algen…Zoveel shrines, het moeten er duizenden zijn. Ze lijken op elkaar, groot en klein. En steeds die vossen, Ook veel tori’s, de meeste van steen, grauw als de stenen van de shrines zelf, andere oranje, van hout. Trapjes ook. Overal trapjes…
Achtergrond: Dit is Fushimi Inari, naast Miyajima de belangrijkste toeristenspot van Japan. Het is een berg, gewijd aan Inari, de god van de oogst en de rijst. Belangrijk in Japan. De vos is de boodschapper van Inari, de tekstrol in z’n bek symboliseert dat…
De vos rechts heeft meestal een bal in z’n bek, dat is de tijd. Een andere rol van de vos in de mythologie van Japan…De wandeling die wij maakten kent bijna niemand. Iedereen loopt onder de oranje tori’s door, tienduizend zijn het er. Een groot deel van de officiële route is overdekt door al die poorten, als een tunnel, heel bijzonder…En heel druk. Meer dan 200 bussen met toeristen, elke dag opnieuw. Dat vinden wij vreselijk. Tot ik er achter kwam dat je ook om de berg heen kon lopen en aan de andere kant weer aansluiten op de route. Een totaal andere ervaring…Het voelt bevrijdend om al aan het begin al die mensen achter je te laten bij een kruispunt en plotseling niemand meer tegen te komen…Aan het eind van de route sluiten we aan in de rij met de toeristen van de tours. De vossen daar hebben alvast allemaal een nieuwe bib gekregen voor nieuwjaar…
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